Genoa: a hidden gem.
Whether you pronounce it in English as Genoa or in Italian as Genova, this is one Italian city that is often, unfortunately, overlooked by tourists.
Nestled in northwestern Italy close to France and between the Ligurian Sea and the Apennine Mountains, this is Italy’s largest port and sixth largest city. The Genovese people are a closed community, which is one reason the city has been off the radar for tourism development and tourist invasions for so long. Now, it is a stop for many cruise ships so the word is spreading: Genoa is a cultural and architectural beauty and a gourmet heaven.
While Genoa is a thriving modern metropolis, the past is ever present. The medieval old town is one of Europe’s largest and is a fascinating labyrinth of alleys and lanes. These lanes are called caruggi. The area is large, near the port and safe to visit. Some of these streets house small designer shops, some are home to company head offices and others are quite simply home to a large community of local families.
Most are pedestrian streets with only scooters allowed. The area is great for casual walks and for determined niche shopping.
Sometimes the lanes will converge and open to a small piazza and a church. It is simply surprising and beautiful.
You can see by the pictures that the streets are very narrow and barely allow the sun to penetrate.
Abundant clotheslines stretch across lanes and windows proving that there is a living and working neighbourhood here.
If you walk down to the port area, you will find numerous food shops located in medieval buildings with archway façades.
Many sell seafood of all sorts, quick meals and many offer “standup-only” spots to eat. The typical comfort food of Liguria is a kind of fried flatbread called: farinata. It is made of chickpea flour, olive oil, salt and mineral water and is eaten either plain or with garnishes. The best are in the standup-only shops. If you want to try making these at home, there is a good, typical recipe at this site: http://www.food.com/recipe/ligurian-farinata-savory-italian-pancake-or-flatbread-112403#ixzz1xsbQXmTc
Even if you are a great cook and make a great farinata, I would suggest planning a trip soon to try some in Genoa. This will be one of many treats you will encounter and discover.
©photos bbunce
Hi Barbara: You’ve certainly made Genoa sound tempting! I’m sure I’d enjoy it as I’ve enjoyed every town and city I’ve had the opportunity to visit thus far.
Enjoy Croatia. I’ve heard nothing but good things from fellow travellers who’ve had the opportunity to visit.
Lovely blog, Barbara. Your photos are wonderful!
Fascinating blog, Barbara. I know I could spend hours just zig-zagging down those narrow streets, trying to get lost and then challenging myself to find my way home again. I did that a lot when I was on my chef’s tour of Switzerland/France and Germany back in 2004. God was it really that long ago? I’ll have to have a go at those farinatas.
Hi Barbara:
Your beautiful pictures and lovely, loving descriptions capture the essence of the city! As one originally from Genoa, I can only marvel at your ability to understand the hidden sides of a very private, truly hidden town. Have a lovely time in Croatia and Slovenia.